Brownwood Weekend

Updates are in order...

Last Friday, Lindsey and I made a quick trip Brownwood to give my project on the Texas boulder a few attempts. It was a cold morning, and after we warmed up on Tall Cool Blue One I jumped on the project. On the first attempt i fell making the large stretch into Texas Toast. I rested for a few minutes, got back on, and sent Texas Torture.

Here are a few pictures taken by Bryan on Sunday of me pulling past the crux on Texas Torture, and linking into Texas Toast:

Texas Torture is the hardest problem I have climbed, and is certainly one of the most difficult at Brownwood. After, sending my project, Lindsey and I set about clearing out the trails, and clearing cacti from the top-outs of two new projects.

We also checked out Scott's Problem, put up by Scott C. from Camp Eagle two years ago. I tried the problem two years ago, but haven't put any effort towards it, as the landing has been covered in poisin ivey and vines since then. Lindsey and I cleaned it all out and planned to head back on Sunday.

Sunday:

Bday and I took Brian C. and Jason, from the other side of town, out to Brownwood for their first trip.

Brian C. dispatched several problems including Mission Impossible, Slap That, Tall Cool Blue One, and Panzy Fest. He also worked on Burlfest and linked into the sidepull, but fell going for one of the higher slopers. Here he is topping out Panzy Fest:

BDay came heartbreakingly close on Burlfest. Sunday was definitely his best day on the problem, and he fell twice on the last slopers. He will surely send next time he goes out.

BDay is getting strong right now, doing the moves on Texas Toothpick easily Sunday. I tried to make him attempt Jagged Edge...but to no avail. Here he is on Burlfest:

At the end of the day, Brian C. and I went to Scott's Problem with its new and improved landing area. On my first go i fell off brutal sloper mantel. Brian C. helped me to work out some new beta and I sent quickly after. Scott's Problem is one of the best at Brownwood; pictured below:

I also cleaned the arete on the right side of the Texas boulder, and established a new problem--unamed as of yet...but the moves are great and it needs to be repeated.

Today--Tom, Scott, Duke and I climbed at Reimer's. More updates to come soon.

Back to Back...Brownwood

After bouldering at Mckinney on Friday (see below), my finger tips were pretty sore. But, alas, Dustin and Brad talked me into going to Brownwood today. Given the choice between not climbing (watching climbing videos) and climbing, i'll generaly choose climbing (although there are some good videos...).

This was Dustin's first time at Brownwood, and he styled several climbs including this tall warm-up.



Lindsey, the most dedicated rock-climbing girlfriend around, went with us even after waking up early to do a breast cancer 5k. She repeated some easy ones she has done before, and took the climbing day easy. Here she is on the same warm-up.



Brad had a strong day, sending Mission Impossible and falling off the last move of Slap That. After being thwarted by Mission Impossible on the last trip, Brad sent first try today.



I vowed I wouldn't get on my project today--committing the day to moderate climbs. But when we walked by I couldn't resist hopping on it a few times. I linked through the first crux three times today, and fell each time heading out to the best crimp on the route. I'm excited about the progress, but my finger tips are officially devastated.

I'll leave you with this picture of Brad.



Enough said.

Something Different

Lindsey had to be in Austin early Friday morning for an interior design meeting, and so I tagged along and went to Mckinney Falls for a few hours. I had been to Mckinney Falls a few times last summer when I was working in San Antonio, as well as one trip at the beginning of this summer.

Mckinney falls is notoriously hard, and coupled with oppressive heat, I sent very few problems on previous trips.

But with relativly cool temps friday I was able to send an old project The Arete (V3), as well as my first V7, Power Merchant.

Unfortunatley, I was flying solo and didn't get any pictures from the day. Here's a photo from this summer of me on Evil Eyes (V5), which I still haven't sent.

I ran into some austin locals who gave me beta on several problems--thanks for the help.

Enchanted Rock and the Gripper Approaching

I've never competed at the Granite Gripper, but after hearing really good things last year I hope to head down to Erock on Nov. 8 to participate. Here are a few pictures from last semester of a trip Joel and I took to Erock. Scott C. from Camp Eagle gave us a proper tour of some of the good problems we had missed on other trips.



Joel on the Lunar Arete. The Lunar boulders are a pretty good hike from the parking lot, but this problem is probably the best I've climbed on in the park.



This is the opposite arete on the same Lunar boulder. This one is quite a bit harder and I didn't manage a send last time. Hopefully, with a little more work it will come together for me.



Lastly, here's Scott on The Prow (v6). I have yet to try this one, but this may be the year.

Its off to Dallas for the weekend. Next week I hope to put to rest my project at Brownwood.

Bryan's project and other stuff

Here are two old photos of Bryan from last semester working Burlfest. They give you a good perspective on the climb's angle and slopiness.





Here's one from yesterday's attempts on the same problem. Instead of matching on the bad gaston in the picture, Bryan threw out right to the sidepull on the face--a huge move which he styled on his first attempt with that beta. This problem is notoriously pumpy, and had Bryan tried that move the first time (before the dreaded pump set in) he would have sent undoubtedly.



Lastly, here are two old pictures that give you a perspective on "Jagged Edge," Eric O.'s problem that I finally sent yesterday. You start on the flake I'm staning in front of, go up to a sloper, cross to a crimp, then a big move to a crimp right by the arete. Then throw for the bad sloper at the first break on the arete, match and move up and out.



Here's the landing on the Jagged Edge:



Thanks again for the spots.

Finally the project is done.

The day started like this:



Defeat. After doing our standard warm-ups I convinced Bryan and Brad to spot me on a project that has hung over me since last semester. Eric O. from fredricksburg, sent the problem quickly in the spring when i showed it to him, but the sloper on the break in the right arete continued to shut me down (probably 15 times).

The first go of the day was no different. I established on the sloper, better than any other attempt, but flew off making the last hard move. The picture above was taken just after the defeat.

But on the second try, I stuck the move off the sloper and it was done. Thanks Lindsey, Bryan, Brad, Joel, Duke, Tyler for all the spotting on the last few trips.

Brad sent several climbs today (including Tall Cool Blue One) and worked Mission Impossible (pictured below):



Bryan came within two moves of topping out Burlfest. He refined his beta and the change made all the difference. I'm sure he'll send the next time we go out.

At the end of the day i spent some time on the new low start to the problem i worked last time. I've now done every move, and its only a matter of linking it. Pictured below:



More pictures from the day to come, including Bryan working Burlfest. Thanks for the pictures Brad.

More slightly dated summer pictures

At the beginning of the summer, i talked Joel into doing a little late-night bouldering at Roger's Park. Unfortunately, we took only one lantern and a not-so-great walmart flashlight (we have since upgraded to sick headlamps). And although we thought we would beat the heat by going at dark, it actually doesn't cool off until long after sundown. Still, we had a good time and sent some cool climbs.