Monday, March 21, 2011

Lake Brownwood Climbing Guidebook

Its with great pleasure that I announce the release of the first climbing guidebook to The Rocks, at Lake Brownwood. Just outside of Brownwood, TX, the Lake is the area I’ve spent the most time in the last 5 years. The climbing at The Rocks is on brilliant Texas limestone. The bouldering ranges from V0-v7/8, and there are numerous top-ropes from 5.6-5.11/12. The lake is a great place for both beginners and advanced climbers as well, with quite a few open projects remaining.

This guide has been a long time coming. A few years ago I spoke with my friend, and Brownwood local, Ben Chamberlain about the possibility of putting together a guide. But the guide got put on the backburner to school, family and the like. This Christmas I devoted myself to finishing the guide, and couldn’t have done so without Ben’s help, route knowledge, and historical info. I’m indebted to him for his aid in this project.

The guide includes stories from several folks who have contributed to the development of climbing at the Lake. I’m thankful for the time that each of them put into reflecting on their experiences, as well our memories shared at the Lake.

Finally, you’ll find in the opening pages of the guide instructions on checking-in, directions to the crag, and local etiquette. You’ll also find a recent history of the climbing there, and details about printing and binding your guide.

This guidebook is a first-draft, and I welcome all feedback. Please use it wisely, and climb at your own risk. I hope to see you out there.

To download, click the link below (will redirect you to my google docs):

Lake Brownwood: The Rocks Climbing Guide

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Great Weekend Part 1: Adopt-A-Crag

The Adopt-A-Crag went great. Folks from Go-to-Willies, Solid Rock, ACU Outdoor Club, Keep Brownwood Beautiful, and of course Rock Addiction showed up to put some work in and do some good climbing. Ben hauled off a whole truck-bed full of trash collected from the lakeside. We cleared out the trails, and then we climbed.

Unfortunately I didn't remember my camera. In fact, nobody in my car of 4 remembered a camera. So I took this photo from my good buddy Colter's Blog. Colter just went on the road trip of a life time (take a look at his blog to read all about it) and he happened to be swinging through Abilene the weekend of the clean-up. Colter is a great friend, and I miss his companionship here in Abilene. Great to see you Colter!

The clean-up was a great success. I need to give another shout-out to Ben and Mary for their tireless work out at the lake. Ya'll are my heroes. Thanks for everything you do.

Look forward to a "Part 2" posting from that weekend...a trip to Fredricksburg and some Erock bouldering. Stay tuned.

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Its almost here!

Lake Brownwood Adopt-A-Crag is this weekend. Its going to be a good time--be there. See details in the post below.

Thursday, October 21, 2010

The Adopt-a-Crag Approaches

News from Ben and Mary:

NOVEMBER 6, 2010

Lake Brownwood Cleanup

It’s almost time! It gives us a chance to do something good and an excuse to get a lot of climbing in. And as a bonus – swag – all for $0.00 dollars – what a deal!

We will start at 9:00am. Get there early to sign in and get a “got bolts t-shirt” (art is attached), climb-on pack, cliff bars & trash bags while they last.

We will pickup trash, cover graffiti, set up climbs and stop for lunch. After lunch we will throw out some swag. I think Solid Rock is going to have a drawing for some climbing swag. Then it’s ON…

If you don’t tear, break or bust something open then you weren’t climbing hard enough J.

It’s gonna be a blast!

Things to bring: Water, Lunch, Trash bags, Earth tone spray paint to cover graffiti & lots of people to help.

Bring gear & pads. We are planning on setting up about 10 climbs – come help us set up more.

Big thanks to all our sponsors!

Bad news, no camping this year and we will have to be out of the park by dark.

We hope to have a good group like always. I know we are all busy and money is tight but if we don’t support our climbing area today then it may not be here for you tomorrow.

Then where you gonna climb?

If you don’t have gear or a belayer, get to work on it.

Hope to see you at THE ROCKS!

Friday, September 3, 2010

November Adopt-A-Crag

Hey folks. Big news: Team Rock Addiction is putting together another Adopt-A-Crag at the Lake in November. the last one was a blast. We cleared brush, picked up trash, put up new climbs, introduced some new climbers, and had a good time.

You wont want to miss this clean-up.

Here's some info from Ben and Mary:

It’s time for the

Adopt-A-Crag at the Lake

Saturday November 6th

9:00am – 6:00pm

The goal this year is early morning trash pickup and graffiti cover up. Then clean what you want to climb.

We will be roping 6 climbs that will stay roped all day. I am sure there will be more. But this year we will not be supplying any gear so if you want to climb you have to bring your own gear.

We will rope up Monfe & the Mangler. Go to Eric’s blog ( for pics and videos of the climbs & of 1st ascents from last year’s cleanup. It was a blast!

I think 17 routes got roped & there were pads everywhere.

Sign up early to make sure you get a t-shirt that fits & a little extra treat.

We are still looking for sponsors – for more info call

Ben @ 325-998-3109 or email Mary @

Or Eric @

Bring water, lunch and whatever tools you have – like a weed eater, trimmers, gloves & trash bags.

Hope to see ya at the next big blast!!

Team Addiction

Feed the Addiction with Friction

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Still Training

Haven't touched rock in 3 weeks or so. As I read on another blog, in the summer the heat is often the greatest crux facing climbers. Such has been the case here in Abilene.

But I've been consistently climbing on the wall and hitting the hangboard. I think i climbed 4 times on the wall this week, and did two hangboard workouts.

John Long, watch out...

P.S. This is a classic shot of John Long on Pinch Overhang at Horsetooth Reservoir Colorado. Pinch Overhang is a famous John Gill problem, that I hope to try one day. Anyways, this classic photo is from an article in Climbing magazine, 1978, called "Pumping Sandstone." In it, Long recounts his efforts to go send some of Gill's notorious sandstone test pieces--at a time when bouldering was really only in its infancy.

Good stuff.

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Luke crushing

Cousin Luke (littlegent) came into town on Thursday and took some problems down on the wall. He's strong, and only getting stronger.

Luke, thanks for showing us old Gentrys how its done.