Brownwood's Best?

My computer crashed in the middle of the semester, which has made posting difficult. But i finally have another and here's some exciting news to kick off posting again. I plan to follow up the Hueco Day 1 post, with recaps of the other days. But first news of today's events are in order.

Ben and I spent the day clearing cactus, brush and bolting anchors for the climb that has gone by several names: Angel Flake/Duke's Dome/Lake Flake/Ankle...

If you've been to the lake, you have definitely eyed this climb. Its a crack/flake that looks straight out of Yosemite and climbs just as good.

Here's a little history on the route. On one of my earliest trips to the lake, I ran into a former local who told me the route may or may not have been bouldered before. A top-rope was impossible (highly improbable) because a giant cacus guarded the top of the route. It was this local who had named the route Angel Flake.

Most people who visit the Lake have climbed up the first park of the flake, some have even ventured into the second break in the flake. But when the flake stops you have to make three big and spooky moves over the roof to finish the climb. Most people drop well before the roof.

In August of 2008, a group of us tried bouldering the route ground up. My good friend Duke was the first to brave the roof, and pull over the lip, for the first confirmed ascent. I followed immedietally after, but it was pretty spooky. Tyler took a serious fall right after that from just below the roof, and we decided to call it a day. Duke named the route Duke's Dome.

A few months a later, a friend attempted to boulder the route, dropped from the final moves, and fell awkwardly. His ankle was badly broken and we spent the day at the brownwood hospital. Since then, I know of no one who has attempted to boulder the route in its entirety. Nor would I recommend it. There is a precarious boulder at the base, that makes protecting the fall extremely difficult (evidenced by my friend's leg).

Ben and I have talked about the quality of this route for a long time, but bouldering the route is not safe. Its certainly do-able, but no one is doing it and this great route is getting no traffic. Move-for-move the route is likely the best at the Lake. It isn't terribly difficult but the moves are awesome. So Ben and I talked it out, and decided to add two anchor bolts about 10 feet back from the lip. If you want to boulder it, go for it, but if you'd rather top rope it the anchors are there. Go climb it.

Ben and I finished the day off with some moderate bouldering. A few weeks ago we put up a new boulder problem near Mission Impossible called Anticipation. We had to take out a bunch poisin ivey and brush, so you probably wont miss it.

On a final note, when setting up your anchor for the Lake Flake (insert other names here), I would suggest letting the rope hang slightly right of the roof. The roof has a fracture in it. I dont suspect it would ever break, but climb it with caution.

Look for more updates soon.

Hueco Tanks Trip Day 1

Hey all, it's Tyler again, Eric's cousin. Due to my previous blog post and the stroke of genius it possessed, I got recruited to write about the first day of our trip to Hueco Tanks out in El Paso, Texas. For all who aren’t aware, myself, Eric, and Brian Day all made a 3-day trip to Hueco Tanks this past week. Let me begin by saying that the trip was a major success, full of proud sends and amazing community.

But enough of all that pish posh, it's time to get talking about the freaking climbing, which is going to be a task in itself to describe. We woke up at the break of dawn, and I mean literally the break of dawn (if you’ve ever camped with Eric and Brian you’ll know what I’m talking about), ate a quick breakfast, and made our way into the park. Our first stop took us to the Gymnasium boulders for a quick warm-up, pictured below. Here we all flashed Bad Axe, a 2 star V1 that takes you about 12 feet up on pure huecos, a really fun problem. Following our warm up, Eric and I though we would would try Only the Little People Pay Taxes, a 2 star V3 right next to Bad Axe. We quickly got shut down and decided we wanted to move on to more classic stuff in the park.

We left the Gymnasium boulders and headed to the ultra-classic problem Nobody Gets Out of Here alive, a 4 star V2 that must be done if you’re going to Hueco Tanks, pictured below. I flashed the problem on my first go and Eric followed with a proud send on his second attempt. Brian put in some great burns but had a little trouble with the top out. You’ll have to stay tuned for posts on Day 2 and Day 3 to see if he gets the send.

After our time at Nobody Gets Out of Here Alive, we made a short move to another ultra classic problem, Mexican Chicken, a 3 star V6. Below is Eric working the problem. Out of the three of us, he made the most progress and only lacked a coupled moves to top out. We spent an hour or so here before eventually moving on.

After Mexican Chicken we made our way over to another ultra classic Hueco problem and a definite must-do if you're ever in the park, Lobster Claw, a 3 star V5. We set up camp and ate a quick launch before we started putting in work. Pictured below is Brian getting ready for an attempt at a send. All three of us worked the problem for a good couple of hours before Eric finally grabbed the first V5 send of the trip, congrats Eric on a proud send. Brian and myself had the lower moves dialed in but couldn’t make the top throw to finish up the problem. This pretty much rounded out Day 1 of the trip, give or take a few other minor problems we got on here and there that I forgot to document.

A couple of other interesting things that happened during Day 1; we saw Jason Kehl in the park, me and Eric feasted on instant potatoes and Dak, and we were introduced to a community of climbers where their beer came before their climbing.

Keep your eyes peeled for a post on Day 2 from Eric in the near future.

Hueco Tanks

Bryan, Tyler and I are leaving for Hueco today! Full trip report upon our return...

Brad and Tyler's E-Rock Trip

Hey this is Tyler, Eric's cousin, dropping in for a little guest post on the BlogSpot.

This weekend my buddy Brad Miller and I headed down to Enchanted Rock for a little bouldering expedition. The last time I was down at E-Rock was during the Granite Gripper last October, so I was excited about getting back down there and seeing how I had improved. Of course the conditions were hot, the rock was sharp, and the climbing amazing.

We began the day at the Dairy Farm and Frog Pond boulders, located low and right of the main dome. We warmed up on a couple of beginner problems including Milk Mustache(V1), Cow Tipping(V0), and Longhorn Flake(V1). Both Brad and myself worked through these quickly and moved on to harder stuff. I set my sights on Frogatron Direct, a V5 that I worked for close to an hour but couldn't put together the final moves for an ascent. It is definitely one of my favorite problems in the park despite the fact that I didn't get the ascent. Brad worked Milk Jugs (V1), to the right of Frogatron Direct, and is pictured below during his proud ascent. After a snack break we moved around to the backside of these boulders where I tried the sit start of the Prow, a V8, where I quickly found after not being able to make the first move, that I am by no means V8 status yet. Brad worked and sent Ice Cream Corner, a V0+, to the right of The Prow.

After our time at Dairy Farm and Frog Pond we moved on to the Romb Social Boulders, where I spent a good hour and a half working Rombatron, a V4. I had attempted this problem during the Gripper last year and gotten extremely frustrated when I couldn't even make the beginning moves. This trip however would be a different story. After an hour of work I kept getting to the last move but couldn't commit to the final throw for the top. Below is a picture of me extremely frustrated after not being able to get the final move. I finally got tired of taking 12 foot falls and just went for the final throw. I stuck it initially, then began to slip off. I quickly readjusted and got to the hueco for the top out. It was definitely one of the best feelings I've experienced in my climbing career.

Burnt out at the Romb Social Boulders, we made a final move over to Zanzibar, a highly acclaimed V2 located in the Kingdom of Zilch section at the front of the Little Dome. Brad and I both worked the problem and after multiple tries I finally grabbed the ascent, although my top out over the mantle was extremely sloppy looking. Next time I'll have to clean it up.

Overall, the trip was a major success. It was characterized by great climbing, some proud ascents, and a full on shred. I'm definitely looking forward to getting back there soon.

The Infamous Project

After studying all weekend, I made it out to the lake with Ben and Mary after church today. Lately, the Jagged Edge direct project has been on my mind.

The Jagged Edge direct project is number 2. Allow me to give a little history on this block (all the history I know about it...surely there is more). Three years ago, at the original Access Fund sponsored lake clean-up, Scott and Zack came up from Camp Eagle for the festivities. I had looked at the Jagged Edge boulder before, but the landing is terrible. There are multiple smaller boulders and terraces beneath this face.

The face itself is incredible, with a slight 25-30 degree overhang and some small slopers and crimps. On that day, we hung a toprope over the lip and worked the direct version. Both Scott and Zack made serious progress, but the only clear line requires a 4-5 foot dyno off of a small crimp and a sloper to a pretty good sloping jug. Thus the line went unsent. However, the arete (#4 in the picture) was sent by Scott on top-rope.

About a year later I began to work what would become "Jagged Edge" (#3 in the picture) With quite a few more pads, I worked the line ground-up, taking a number of huge falls. The advantage to Jagged Edge, is that at the highest point of the climb, your falls are usually going to land you on a fairly flat terrace. If you blow it before that you'd be in trouble.

Eric O. rolled into town one weekend at around this same time and promptly sent and named Jagged Edge after a good effort. With quite a few pads there, he ventured onto Jagged Edge direct, looking for any static options, but found none. I followed his ascent of Jagged Edge the next weekend. It is probably still the most aesthetic (and cool) climb at the lake.

Well on the Camp Eagle trip, Scott asked about Jagged Edge direct, which got me to thinking about it again. So today, I threw a top-rope on it, and began to work it. From the small crimp and sloper that were originally used for the dyno, one can reach up and left to an abismal sloping crimp. Off of this i was able to bump for a better sloper at the limit of my reach, but failed to ever lock it in. I also tried the direct dyno beta and though I hit the hold a few times, I was also not able to hold onto it.

When Jagged Edge direct goes...it'll be awesome. Certainly the most impressive climb at the lake.

Here's two pictures of me on it today.

Also, expect a guest post by Tyler or Brad on their trip to Enchanted Rock this weekend. Tyler sent Rombatron...I'm jealous.

Scott on Buffet Line (5.13)

Here's a video of Scott doing work on Buffet Line (5.13). This thing is hard...I couldn't even get my feet in place for the opening dyno...

I'm trying to post this to youtube, but apparently I already have a google account that I dont remember my password for. I'll figure it out, but until then check out the video here, and read the trip report from camp eagle below.

(also listen for ben's commentary, a special bonus feature to this video)

Camp Eagle weekend

Ben, Mary, Lindsey and I went down to Camp Eagle for the weekend and had a great time.

Camp Eagle is a Christian adventure camp near Rocksprings, TX. It has to be one of the most impressive places in Texas, with rolling hills, rocky trails, a clear river...and huge cliffs.

We climbed all weekend on what are probably some of the longer limestone routes in Texas. After months of bouldering, my endurance is severely lacking. I'd say everyone in our party felt similarly.

But we did meet up with Scott, who works full-time out at camp, and he quickly dominated (and hung the draws for me) on several routes. Scott's climbing pretty hard these days. Sidenote: Scott's Problem at Brownwood owes its name and first ascent to this Scott.

The potential for route development at Camp Eagle is overwhelming. Ben and I are already conspiring plans to get back and sink some bolts.

All in all, it was one of the best weekends we've had in a long time. I would highly recommend Camp Eagle to anyone wanting to get on long routes in a impressive setting with great people.

Great Success

The Brownwood Crag Clean-up was unreal last weekend. We had several drive in from out of town (some as far as Fredricksburg), a huge turn-out of Brownwood locals, as well as 20 students from ACU's outdoor club. All in all, between 30-35 people.

During the summer months, the lake gets to be in pretty bad shape. A lot of swimmers head to the area to swim and party, which is great...except for the trash and graffiti left behind. This, on top of the standard summer plant growth, had the lake in bad need of a clean-up. But with the huge turn-out we quickly dispatched the goals for the day and started climbing early.

The Rock Addiction crew brought harnesses and shoes for all the students, and we were able to set up about 15 top ropes during the day. I've climbed at most of the public areas in Texas, and I can't say there is a more accessible and moderate area for beginning climbers to learn at--top rope set ups are easy, the climbs are short, rock is good. And I think the kids climbing for their first time really had a blast.

We also slung a few of the tough routes and Colter and Tyler put some work in on This is Your Brain. Tyler is pictured below on the opening crimpy moves.

Colter and Tyler were also both able to send Scott's Problem. This makes ascents 5 and 6 by my count.

It was a great day, and we accomplished a lot. Ben and Mary are doing a great job of maintaining access to and improving the quality of this "west Texas gem." They are the real work-horses out there, and their efforts are truly appreciated.

There's a Clean Up Approaching

My life is revolving around the hangboard these days. In fact, a freak storm came through Abilene a few weeks ago, and lifted my 500+ pound climbing wall and threw it into a heap on the ground. My friend did point out that the wall design was pretty much perfect for such a flight...but he pointed this out after the fact.

So the wall is out of commission. But I've been training pretty seriously on the hangboard, borrowing a workout from a famous climber online. I plan to do a post on that later this week.

In other news, there's a Crag Clean-Up at Lake Brownwood this Saturday. If you'd like to help out, get there around nine. We'll be doing a little brush clearing, some trash pick up and a lot of climbing. Should be a great time. Until then...

Lake Clean-Up

On saturday, I met Ben and Mary down at the Lake for the Clean-Up. Ben and Mary put on a clean-up at Brownwood the last Saturay of every other month. During the summer months the climbing at the lake collects a lot of trash from the swimmers and parties. And like any Texas area, with the heat the plants grow and the trails get tight. So there's always work to be done.



We set to work clearing the top outs of one of the taller walls at the lake. Ben had a saw blade put on his weed-eater that cuts clearing time in half.



Both Ben and I had looked at this wall in the past, but never seriously considered bouldering it. The wall at its highest is 22 feet tall, and guarded by two to three feet of rotten rock at the top. After digging out a foot of choss at the top, we finally gave up and set up a top rope anchor ten feet back from the lip and ran a static over.



Ben grabbed the first ascent of Tell Mafie Nothing which weighs in at 5.9. The pictures are of Mary and I climbing it.

From the same anchor we were able to top-rope an adjacent line with a huge dyno at the top. We are calling it Holladay and its probably 5.10 or 11. Side note--we found an old home made piton in one of the cracks on Holladay. Probably twenty to thirty years old. We've found old pitons in the past, and even one old bolt. It'd be interesting to know some othe Lake climbing history...if anyone has information shoot me an email.

Several more climbs were cleaned on the wall but are still awaiting first ascents. This new wall is Ben's dedication to close friend and legendary Texas climber, Kirk Holladay, who passed away last month. Kirk was co-owner of Rock About guiding service, an ambassador for access to Texas climbing areas, and an Enchanted Rock icon. He will be missed.

If you have a chance, get out there and try out the new climbs or grab a first ascent in his honor.

long time

Well, its been awhile since I've posted. Busy graduating and working. But last night, I was able to make a quick trip to the lake with Tyler and Scott. We met up with Ben there and had a blast. 

Its getting hot in Texas, but if you want to climb outside, you've got to deal with it. The slopers were pretty slick and the crimps greasy, but it was still a great time.

Unfortunately, the summer brings out the swimmers and parties at the lake. With them comes trash and graffiti. Sadly, one great boulder was covered in new graffiti recently. 

Ben has been working hard during the week to keep it clean down there, but can hardly keep up. If you head down there, take a trash bag with you and help the cause.

Until next time...

short session

Ben and I did some bouldering at the lake Saturday morning. I had to work in the afternoon, so the session was cut short.

I was able to climb the new problems on the Mission Impossible boulder that Ben climbed last week. The boulder now has five lines total with the new additions--Tomcat, Mission Direct, Mission Possible, and Mission Enough.--first ascents by Ben.

In other news, while walking around we spotted an overhanging boulder, that I've somehow missed for three years. Its guarded by a fortress of poisin ivy at the moment, but come winter..it's on.

I forgot my camera on saturday, so here's an old shot of Lindsey on Mission Impossible. The new problems are on the opposite side of the boulder.

Scott at Camp Eagle

My good buddy Scott (the first ascentionist of the aptly named Scott's Problem at Brownwood) down at Camp Eagle put up a tough route at Camp Eagle a few months ago. Its called Buffet Line and goes at 5.13. The first move itself looks pretty brutal. I hope to make it down to camp soon to try it out.

Here's a link to the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xK8i5syGA4A

Camp Eagle is a great spot for long limestone sport routes in Central Texas. If you need information, shoot me a message, or check out www.campeagle.org

Also check out these trip reports from Zack at climbdfw, about his time at Camp Eagle: http://climbdfw.wordpress.com/tag/camp-eagle/

Cleaning New Routes

This weekend's clean-up was a great success. We cleared the top outs to a few walls and while doing so I spotted this new climb.



But on Saturday evening I had to work and didn't get a chance to check it out. Today I was off though, so I went down to the lake right after class and lowerd down to check it out.

And its good...slightly overhanging, slopey crimps the whole way. I scrubbed the holds, but will save serious attempts for another day.

Then I went to the Cannibas Canyon to check out the arete right of This Is Your Brain, the 5.11 face that Ben, Bryan and I put up. The arete had several sections of chossy rock, so I lowerd down to do clean it up. Check out my anchor...



Ben met me there right as I was lowering down and he checked the top to set up an anchor, for top-rope attempts. We worked the climb until dusk and its another good one. Both Ben and I managed to peace together the moves and and agree that its probably in the 5.10+ range.

There are two variations at the top, taking either side of the arete. Both are worthwhile. I'm thinking it'll be called Just Say No.

Everytime I'm at the lake, I see more potential. Hopefully the poisin ivy will hold off for just a little while longer.

Climbing, Recovery and Work

Until this past weekend my climbing has slacked considerably. I did something to my elbow on the wall a few weeks ago, and hadn't climbed since. However this sunday we traveled to Brownwood and climbed some moderates.

Unfortunately, I have no pictures at the moment.

But Nick sent Texas Toast. Well done, good sir.

In other news, tommorow morning is another workday. Several ACU students will be meeting the Rock Addiction folks at 9 am. If your in the area, come by, do some work, and do some climbing.

Report on the trip to follow.

Doing Work

Bryan and I took a half-day trip to Brownwood this weekend and met up with Ben. We were pumped to try a tall new route, so we set up a top-rope anchor and cleaned a great new route in the 5.11 range.

Both Ben and I have eyed the two faces on this arete. The arete is one of the more inspiring features at brownwood, with the look of a giant ship's prow. We also hung a rope over the arete proper, but it'll take some cleaning before its safe for serious attempts.





The new route going up the water streak (pictured), follows a 15 degree overhang on small crimps and shouldery gastons. The crux happens to come at the top, moving from a small slopey crimp to another slopey crimp. I did manage to top it out, and am trying to draw up a way to lead it on some long webbing runners from the top anchors.

I really need to take a moment and thank Ben and his wife Mary for everthing they do out at the Lake. He really has done a lot to make Brownwood and enjoyable and safe climbing spot for people of all ability levels, as well maintain access for guys like me. Thanks for everything ya'll do.

In other news: Bryan sent Scott's Problem, for the fourth ascent to date. Tyler managed to get some video footage of the send, so I hope to put together a clip sometime this week. Check back in for that. Proud send Bryan...Texas Torture next? Jagged Edge?



This is actually Tyler on Scott's Problem. He's now done all the moves and only lacks the link. He'll send next time I'm sure. He did nab an ascent of the dyno problem by the water. I'll also pick up some footage of this and make a clip...so you have multiple reasons to check the blog later this week. Until then, climb hard.

P.S.
Zack and Scott, you better be doing work down there at camp. I expect a second ascent of Buffet Line from you Zack. I hope to climb with you guys soon.

Nick on Burlfest

Here's a short video of Nick trying Burlfest, one of the best problems at Brownwood. Bday recently got the second ascent of the problem, and Nick was close to getting the third on his first day of effort...

Well, there's always next time...

First Video Attempt

Well lindsey just got a new mac, and so I have been using it extensively. I'll admit I spend a good amount of my time watching climbing videos and now that I have access to imovie, i thought i'd try to make one.


Unfortunately, we had Lindsey's camera on a low quality resolution and didn't know it till the end of the day...but you get the idea. This was from a day-trip she and I took to Brownwood in January.



P.S. I have no idea what song this is (i'm not a big fan) It was one of the few songs on the new computer.

Brad's Photos

Reimers Weekend

This past weekend, Alex, Colter, Nick, Brad and I crammed into Brad's truck and headed for Reimers. We climbed from 8am-6pm, and though it was crowded, we were still able to climb a bunch of routes. Highlights included: Crankenstein, Blowing Smoke, Wife in the Fast Lane, Socks on Chicks, Prototype, 8-Flake and more.

Unfortunately, I didn't take many pictures. Hopefully Brad and Nick will send some better ones.

In other news, belaying with a grigi is so much better... I've been a cheap scoundrel and stuck to using an atc all this time. Thanks lindsey for the Christmas grigri.

Here's a couple of the only pictures I have. Brad and Alex warming up on 8-flake: