The Jagged Edge direct project is number 2. Allow me to give a little history on this block (all the history I know about it...surely there is more). Three years ago, at the original Access Fund sponsored lake clean-up, Scott and Zack came up from Camp Eagle for the festivities. I had looked at the Jagged Edge boulder before, but the landing is terrible. There are multiple smaller boulders and terraces beneath this face.
The face itself is incredible, with a slight 25-30 degree overhang and some small slopers and crimps. On that day, we hung a toprope over the lip and worked the direct version. Both Scott and Zack made serious progress, but the only clear line requires a 4-5 foot dyno off of a small crimp and a sloper to a pretty good sloping jug. Thus the line went unsent. However, the arete (#4 in the picture) was sent by Scott on top-rope.
About a year later I began to work what would become "Jagged Edge" (#3 in the picture) With quite a few more pads, I worked the line ground-up, taking a number of huge falls. The advantage to Jagged Edge, is that at the highest point of the climb, your falls are usually going to land you on a fairly flat terrace. If you blow it before that you'd be in trouble.
Eric O. rolled into town one weekend at around this same time and promptly sent and named Jagged Edge after a good effort. With quite a few pads there, he ventured onto Jagged Edge direct, looking for any static options, but found none. I followed his ascent of Jagged Edge the next weekend. It is probably still the most aesthetic (and cool) climb at the lake.
Well on the Camp Eagle trip, Scott asked about Jagged Edge direct, which got me to thinking about it again. So today, I threw a top-rope on it, and began to work it. From the small crimp and sloper that were originally used for the dyno, one can reach up and left to an abismal sloping crimp. Off of this i was able to bump for a better sloper at the limit of my reach, but failed to ever lock it in. I also tried the direct dyno beta and though I hit the hold a few times, I was also not able to hold onto it.
When Jagged Edge direct goes...it'll be awesome. Certainly the most impressive climb at the lake.
Here's two pictures of me on it today.
Also, expect a guest post by Tyler or Brad on their trip to Enchanted Rock this weekend. Tyler sent Rombatron...I'm jealous.
3 comments:
Glad to see some effort going into sending this thing. It's only a matter of time...
PS - seeing that pic of the line reminded me: have you done any more work on a guide for the area? You are one of the few with good knowledge of all the legit problems.
Hey man,I haven't really been working on the guide since the semester started. I probably have 10 boulders/faces with routes marked but there's so much more to do. Plans for it are still in the works. Since Ben and I have started climbing together I've also learned alot of the history of the top-ropes and older boulder problems. So hopefully I'll be able to include that in the guide...
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