Brad and Tyler's E-Rock Trip

Hey this is Tyler, Eric's cousin, dropping in for a little guest post on the BlogSpot.

This weekend my buddy Brad Miller and I headed down to Enchanted Rock for a little bouldering expedition. The last time I was down at E-Rock was during the Granite Gripper last October, so I was excited about getting back down there and seeing how I had improved. Of course the conditions were hot, the rock was sharp, and the climbing amazing.

We began the day at the Dairy Farm and Frog Pond boulders, located low and right of the main dome. We warmed up on a couple of beginner problems including Milk Mustache(V1), Cow Tipping(V0), and Longhorn Flake(V1). Both Brad and myself worked through these quickly and moved on to harder stuff. I set my sights on Frogatron Direct, a V5 that I worked for close to an hour but couldn't put together the final moves for an ascent. It is definitely one of my favorite problems in the park despite the fact that I didn't get the ascent. Brad worked Milk Jugs (V1), to the right of Frogatron Direct, and is pictured below during his proud ascent. After a snack break we moved around to the backside of these boulders where I tried the sit start of the Prow, a V8, where I quickly found after not being able to make the first move, that I am by no means V8 status yet. Brad worked and sent Ice Cream Corner, a V0+, to the right of The Prow.

After our time at Dairy Farm and Frog Pond we moved on to the Romb Social Boulders, where I spent a good hour and a half working Rombatron, a V4. I had attempted this problem during the Gripper last year and gotten extremely frustrated when I couldn't even make the beginning moves. This trip however would be a different story. After an hour of work I kept getting to the last move but couldn't commit to the final throw for the top. Below is a picture of me extremely frustrated after not being able to get the final move. I finally got tired of taking 12 foot falls and just went for the final throw. I stuck it initially, then began to slip off. I quickly readjusted and got to the hueco for the top out. It was definitely one of the best feelings I've experienced in my climbing career.

Burnt out at the Romb Social Boulders, we made a final move over to Zanzibar, a highly acclaimed V2 located in the Kingdom of Zilch section at the front of the Little Dome. Brad and I both worked the problem and after multiple tries I finally grabbed the ascent, although my top out over the mantle was extremely sloppy looking. Next time I'll have to clean it up.

Overall, the trip was a major success. It was characterized by great climbing, some proud ascents, and a full on shred. I'm definitely looking forward to getting back there soon.

The Infamous Project

After studying all weekend, I made it out to the lake with Ben and Mary after church today. Lately, the Jagged Edge direct project has been on my mind.

The Jagged Edge direct project is number 2. Allow me to give a little history on this block (all the history I know about it...surely there is more). Three years ago, at the original Access Fund sponsored lake clean-up, Scott and Zack came up from Camp Eagle for the festivities. I had looked at the Jagged Edge boulder before, but the landing is terrible. There are multiple smaller boulders and terraces beneath this face.

The face itself is incredible, with a slight 25-30 degree overhang and some small slopers and crimps. On that day, we hung a toprope over the lip and worked the direct version. Both Scott and Zack made serious progress, but the only clear line requires a 4-5 foot dyno off of a small crimp and a sloper to a pretty good sloping jug. Thus the line went unsent. However, the arete (#4 in the picture) was sent by Scott on top-rope.

About a year later I began to work what would become "Jagged Edge" (#3 in the picture) With quite a few more pads, I worked the line ground-up, taking a number of huge falls. The advantage to Jagged Edge, is that at the highest point of the climb, your falls are usually going to land you on a fairly flat terrace. If you blow it before that you'd be in trouble.

Eric O. rolled into town one weekend at around this same time and promptly sent and named Jagged Edge after a good effort. With quite a few pads there, he ventured onto Jagged Edge direct, looking for any static options, but found none. I followed his ascent of Jagged Edge the next weekend. It is probably still the most aesthetic (and cool) climb at the lake.

Well on the Camp Eagle trip, Scott asked about Jagged Edge direct, which got me to thinking about it again. So today, I threw a top-rope on it, and began to work it. From the small crimp and sloper that were originally used for the dyno, one can reach up and left to an abismal sloping crimp. Off of this i was able to bump for a better sloper at the limit of my reach, but failed to ever lock it in. I also tried the direct dyno beta and though I hit the hold a few times, I was also not able to hold onto it.

When Jagged Edge direct goes...it'll be awesome. Certainly the most impressive climb at the lake.

Here's two pictures of me on it today.

Also, expect a guest post by Tyler or Brad on their trip to Enchanted Rock this weekend. Tyler sent Rombatron...I'm jealous.

Scott on Buffet Line (5.13)

Here's a video of Scott doing work on Buffet Line (5.13). This thing is hard...I couldn't even get my feet in place for the opening dyno...

I'm trying to post this to youtube, but apparently I already have a google account that I dont remember my password for. I'll figure it out, but until then check out the video here, and read the trip report from camp eagle below.

(also listen for ben's commentary, a special bonus feature to this video)

Camp Eagle weekend

Ben, Mary, Lindsey and I went down to Camp Eagle for the weekend and had a great time.

Camp Eagle is a Christian adventure camp near Rocksprings, TX. It has to be one of the most impressive places in Texas, with rolling hills, rocky trails, a clear river...and huge cliffs.

We climbed all weekend on what are probably some of the longer limestone routes in Texas. After months of bouldering, my endurance is severely lacking. I'd say everyone in our party felt similarly.

But we did meet up with Scott, who works full-time out at camp, and he quickly dominated (and hung the draws for me) on several routes. Scott's climbing pretty hard these days. Sidenote: Scott's Problem at Brownwood owes its name and first ascent to this Scott.

The potential for route development at Camp Eagle is overwhelming. Ben and I are already conspiring plans to get back and sink some bolts.

All in all, it was one of the best weekends we've had in a long time. I would highly recommend Camp Eagle to anyone wanting to get on long routes in a impressive setting with great people.

Great Success

The Brownwood Crag Clean-up was unreal last weekend. We had several drive in from out of town (some as far as Fredricksburg), a huge turn-out of Brownwood locals, as well as 20 students from ACU's outdoor club. All in all, between 30-35 people.

During the summer months, the lake gets to be in pretty bad shape. A lot of swimmers head to the area to swim and party, which is great...except for the trash and graffiti left behind. This, on top of the standard summer plant growth, had the lake in bad need of a clean-up. But with the huge turn-out we quickly dispatched the goals for the day and started climbing early.

The Rock Addiction crew brought harnesses and shoes for all the students, and we were able to set up about 15 top ropes during the day. I've climbed at most of the public areas in Texas, and I can't say there is a more accessible and moderate area for beginning climbers to learn at--top rope set ups are easy, the climbs are short, rock is good. And I think the kids climbing for their first time really had a blast.

We also slung a few of the tough routes and Colter and Tyler put some work in on This is Your Brain. Tyler is pictured below on the opening crimpy moves.

Colter and Tyler were also both able to send Scott's Problem. This makes ascents 5 and 6 by my count.

It was a great day, and we accomplished a lot. Ben and Mary are doing a great job of maintaining access to and improving the quality of this "west Texas gem." They are the real work-horses out there, and their efforts are truly appreciated.

There's a Clean Up Approaching

My life is revolving around the hangboard these days. In fact, a freak storm came through Abilene a few weeks ago, and lifted my 500+ pound climbing wall and threw it into a heap on the ground. My friend did point out that the wall design was pretty much perfect for such a flight...but he pointed this out after the fact.

So the wall is out of commission. But I've been training pretty seriously on the hangboard, borrowing a workout from a famous climber online. I plan to do a post on that later this week.

In other news, there's a Crag Clean-Up at Lake Brownwood this Saturday. If you'd like to help out, get there around nine. We'll be doing a little brush clearing, some trash pick up and a lot of climbing. Should be a great time. Until then...

Lake Clean-Up

On saturday, I met Ben and Mary down at the Lake for the Clean-Up. Ben and Mary put on a clean-up at Brownwood the last Saturay of every other month. During the summer months the climbing at the lake collects a lot of trash from the swimmers and parties. And like any Texas area, with the heat the plants grow and the trails get tight. So there's always work to be done.



We set to work clearing the top outs of one of the taller walls at the lake. Ben had a saw blade put on his weed-eater that cuts clearing time in half.



Both Ben and I had looked at this wall in the past, but never seriously considered bouldering it. The wall at its highest is 22 feet tall, and guarded by two to three feet of rotten rock at the top. After digging out a foot of choss at the top, we finally gave up and set up a top rope anchor ten feet back from the lip and ran a static over.



Ben grabbed the first ascent of Tell Mafie Nothing which weighs in at 5.9. The pictures are of Mary and I climbing it.

From the same anchor we were able to top-rope an adjacent line with a huge dyno at the top. We are calling it Holladay and its probably 5.10 or 11. Side note--we found an old home made piton in one of the cracks on Holladay. Probably twenty to thirty years old. We've found old pitons in the past, and even one old bolt. It'd be interesting to know some othe Lake climbing history...if anyone has information shoot me an email.

Several more climbs were cleaned on the wall but are still awaiting first ascents. This new wall is Ben's dedication to close friend and legendary Texas climber, Kirk Holladay, who passed away last month. Kirk was co-owner of Rock About guiding service, an ambassador for access to Texas climbing areas, and an Enchanted Rock icon. He will be missed.

If you have a chance, get out there and try out the new climbs or grab a first ascent in his honor.