Great Success

The Brownwood Crag Clean-up was unreal last weekend. We had several drive in from out of town (some as far as Fredricksburg), a huge turn-out of Brownwood locals, as well as 20 students from ACU's outdoor club. All in all, between 30-35 people.

During the summer months, the lake gets to be in pretty bad shape. A lot of swimmers head to the area to swim and party, which is great...except for the trash and graffiti left behind. This, on top of the standard summer plant growth, had the lake in bad need of a clean-up. But with the huge turn-out we quickly dispatched the goals for the day and started climbing early.

The Rock Addiction crew brought harnesses and shoes for all the students, and we were able to set up about 15 top ropes during the day. I've climbed at most of the public areas in Texas, and I can't say there is a more accessible and moderate area for beginning climbers to learn at--top rope set ups are easy, the climbs are short, rock is good. And I think the kids climbing for their first time really had a blast.

We also slung a few of the tough routes and Colter and Tyler put some work in on This is Your Brain. Tyler is pictured below on the opening crimpy moves.

Colter and Tyler were also both able to send Scott's Problem. This makes ascents 5 and 6 by my count.

It was a great day, and we accomplished a lot. Ben and Mary are doing a great job of maintaining access to and improving the quality of this "west Texas gem." They are the real work-horses out there, and their efforts are truly appreciated.

There's a Clean Up Approaching

My life is revolving around the hangboard these days. In fact, a freak storm came through Abilene a few weeks ago, and lifted my 500+ pound climbing wall and threw it into a heap on the ground. My friend did point out that the wall design was pretty much perfect for such a flight...but he pointed this out after the fact.

So the wall is out of commission. But I've been training pretty seriously on the hangboard, borrowing a workout from a famous climber online. I plan to do a post on that later this week.

In other news, there's a Crag Clean-Up at Lake Brownwood this Saturday. If you'd like to help out, get there around nine. We'll be doing a little brush clearing, some trash pick up and a lot of climbing. Should be a great time. Until then...

Lake Clean-Up

On saturday, I met Ben and Mary down at the Lake for the Clean-Up. Ben and Mary put on a clean-up at Brownwood the last Saturay of every other month. During the summer months the climbing at the lake collects a lot of trash from the swimmers and parties. And like any Texas area, with the heat the plants grow and the trails get tight. So there's always work to be done.



We set to work clearing the top outs of one of the taller walls at the lake. Ben had a saw blade put on his weed-eater that cuts clearing time in half.



Both Ben and I had looked at this wall in the past, but never seriously considered bouldering it. The wall at its highest is 22 feet tall, and guarded by two to three feet of rotten rock at the top. After digging out a foot of choss at the top, we finally gave up and set up a top rope anchor ten feet back from the lip and ran a static over.



Ben grabbed the first ascent of Tell Mafie Nothing which weighs in at 5.9. The pictures are of Mary and I climbing it.

From the same anchor we were able to top-rope an adjacent line with a huge dyno at the top. We are calling it Holladay and its probably 5.10 or 11. Side note--we found an old home made piton in one of the cracks on Holladay. Probably twenty to thirty years old. We've found old pitons in the past, and even one old bolt. It'd be interesting to know some othe Lake climbing history...if anyone has information shoot me an email.

Several more climbs were cleaned on the wall but are still awaiting first ascents. This new wall is Ben's dedication to close friend and legendary Texas climber, Kirk Holladay, who passed away last month. Kirk was co-owner of Rock About guiding service, an ambassador for access to Texas climbing areas, and an Enchanted Rock icon. He will be missed.

If you have a chance, get out there and try out the new climbs or grab a first ascent in his honor.

long time

Well, its been awhile since I've posted. Busy graduating and working. But last night, I was able to make a quick trip to the lake with Tyler and Scott. We met up with Ben there and had a blast. 

Its getting hot in Texas, but if you want to climb outside, you've got to deal with it. The slopers were pretty slick and the crimps greasy, but it was still a great time.

Unfortunately, the summer brings out the swimmers and parties at the lake. With them comes trash and graffiti. Sadly, one great boulder was covered in new graffiti recently. 

Ben has been working hard during the week to keep it clean down there, but can hardly keep up. If you head down there, take a trash bag with you and help the cause.

Until next time...

short session

Ben and I did some bouldering at the lake Saturday morning. I had to work in the afternoon, so the session was cut short.

I was able to climb the new problems on the Mission Impossible boulder that Ben climbed last week. The boulder now has five lines total with the new additions--Tomcat, Mission Direct, Mission Possible, and Mission Enough.--first ascents by Ben.

In other news, while walking around we spotted an overhanging boulder, that I've somehow missed for three years. Its guarded by a fortress of poisin ivy at the moment, but come winter..it's on.

I forgot my camera on saturday, so here's an old shot of Lindsey on Mission Impossible. The new problems are on the opposite side of the boulder.

Scott at Camp Eagle

My good buddy Scott (the first ascentionist of the aptly named Scott's Problem at Brownwood) down at Camp Eagle put up a tough route at Camp Eagle a few months ago. Its called Buffet Line and goes at 5.13. The first move itself looks pretty brutal. I hope to make it down to camp soon to try it out.

Here's a link to the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xK8i5syGA4A

Camp Eagle is a great spot for long limestone sport routes in Central Texas. If you need information, shoot me a message, or check out www.campeagle.org

Also check out these trip reports from Zack at climbdfw, about his time at Camp Eagle: http://climbdfw.wordpress.com/tag/camp-eagle/

Cleaning New Routes

This weekend's clean-up was a great success. We cleared the top outs to a few walls and while doing so I spotted this new climb.



But on Saturday evening I had to work and didn't get a chance to check it out. Today I was off though, so I went down to the lake right after class and lowerd down to check it out.

And its good...slightly overhanging, slopey crimps the whole way. I scrubbed the holds, but will save serious attempts for another day.

Then I went to the Cannibas Canyon to check out the arete right of This Is Your Brain, the 5.11 face that Ben, Bryan and I put up. The arete had several sections of chossy rock, so I lowerd down to do clean it up. Check out my anchor...



Ben met me there right as I was lowering down and he checked the top to set up an anchor, for top-rope attempts. We worked the climb until dusk and its another good one. Both Ben and I managed to peace together the moves and and agree that its probably in the 5.10+ range.

There are two variations at the top, taking either side of the arete. Both are worthwhile. I'm thinking it'll be called Just Say No.

Everytime I'm at the lake, I see more potential. Hopefully the poisin ivy will hold off for just a little while longer.