In true celebratory fashion, I spent two days of thanksgiving break climbing at Reimers. Brad invited me to stay the night at his house on Tuesday, and climb with he, his brother and his girlfriend. Brad was anxious to try Spidergrind (5.11), so we started there.
Brad linked through all the moves on top-rope and will likely send it on his next trip. The highlight of the climb, however, was Brad's cry to "Let me down! I'm bleeding!" The blood is pictured below.
We walked to the House of Pain area, my first time to head all the way over there, and its one of the most impressive areas of hard routes I've seen in Texas. Someday I'll try Irreverent Youth...someday.
After climbing a few 10's Die Hard, War on Rugs, and T-Roofic, we went back to Sex Cave to climb Liposuction (5.12) . I've wanted to try the route since first seeing it a few years ago, but hadn't tried it. Jason led the route, sans stickclip (which is pretty spooky), and I followed on top-rope.
On saturday, I met Bryan in Austin, and we went back out to Reimers. After warming up on Die Hard, we went back to Sex Cave to try Body Wax (5.12). I tried the route a year ago, and decked going for the dyno, so I put a crash-pad down (dont tell me sponsors) and climbed through the dyno relatively quickly. I pulled the rope and went for the redpoint, but fell over and over, pumping out on the last moves.
Hopefully I'll be able to head back down there soon.
1 comment:
I tried Spider as a second but it was too hard to unclip so I may try leading it next time. I found the part I did get easy for an 11. Maybe I never hit the crux
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