Cleaning New Routes

This weekend's clean-up was a great success. We cleared the top outs to a few walls and while doing so I spotted this new climb.



But on Saturday evening I had to work and didn't get a chance to check it out. Today I was off though, so I went down to the lake right after class and lowerd down to check it out.

And its good...slightly overhanging, slopey crimps the whole way. I scrubbed the holds, but will save serious attempts for another day.

Then I went to the Cannibas Canyon to check out the arete right of This Is Your Brain, the 5.11 face that Ben, Bryan and I put up. The arete had several sections of chossy rock, so I lowerd down to do clean it up. Check out my anchor...



Ben met me there right as I was lowering down and he checked the top to set up an anchor, for top-rope attempts. We worked the climb until dusk and its another good one. Both Ben and I managed to peace together the moves and and agree that its probably in the 5.10+ range.

There are two variations at the top, taking either side of the arete. Both are worthwhile. I'm thinking it'll be called Just Say No.

Everytime I'm at the lake, I see more potential. Hopefully the poisin ivy will hold off for just a little while longer.

Climbing, Recovery and Work

Until this past weekend my climbing has slacked considerably. I did something to my elbow on the wall a few weeks ago, and hadn't climbed since. However this sunday we traveled to Brownwood and climbed some moderates.

Unfortunately, I have no pictures at the moment.

But Nick sent Texas Toast. Well done, good sir.

In other news, tommorow morning is another workday. Several ACU students will be meeting the Rock Addiction folks at 9 am. If your in the area, come by, do some work, and do some climbing.

Report on the trip to follow.

Doing Work

Bryan and I took a half-day trip to Brownwood this weekend and met up with Ben. We were pumped to try a tall new route, so we set up a top-rope anchor and cleaned a great new route in the 5.11 range.

Both Ben and I have eyed the two faces on this arete. The arete is one of the more inspiring features at brownwood, with the look of a giant ship's prow. We also hung a rope over the arete proper, but it'll take some cleaning before its safe for serious attempts.





The new route going up the water streak (pictured), follows a 15 degree overhang on small crimps and shouldery gastons. The crux happens to come at the top, moving from a small slopey crimp to another slopey crimp. I did manage to top it out, and am trying to draw up a way to lead it on some long webbing runners from the top anchors.

I really need to take a moment and thank Ben and his wife Mary for everthing they do out at the Lake. He really has done a lot to make Brownwood and enjoyable and safe climbing spot for people of all ability levels, as well maintain access for guys like me. Thanks for everything ya'll do.

In other news: Bryan sent Scott's Problem, for the fourth ascent to date. Tyler managed to get some video footage of the send, so I hope to put together a clip sometime this week. Check back in for that. Proud send Bryan...Texas Torture next? Jagged Edge?



This is actually Tyler on Scott's Problem. He's now done all the moves and only lacks the link. He'll send next time I'm sure. He did nab an ascent of the dyno problem by the water. I'll also pick up some footage of this and make a clip...so you have multiple reasons to check the blog later this week. Until then, climb hard.

P.S.
Zack and Scott, you better be doing work down there at camp. I expect a second ascent of Buffet Line from you Zack. I hope to climb with you guys soon.