Still Training

Haven't touched rock in 3 weeks or so. As I read on another blog, in the summer the heat is often the greatest crux facing climbers. Such has been the case here in Abilene.

But I've been consistently climbing on the wall and hitting the hangboard. I think i climbed 4 times on the wall this week, and did two hangboard workouts.

John Long, watch out...



P.S. This is a classic shot of John Long on Pinch Overhang at Horsetooth Reservoir Colorado. Pinch Overhang is a famous John Gill problem, that I hope to try one day. Anyways, this classic photo is from an article in Climbing magazine, 1978, called "Pumping Sandstone." In it, Long recounts his efforts to go send some of Gill's notorious sandstone test pieces--at a time when bouldering was really only in its infancy.

Good stuff.

Luke crushing

Cousin Luke (littlegent) came into town on Thursday and took some problems down on the wall. He's strong, and only getting stronger.





Luke, thanks for showing us old Gentrys how its done.

Wall Update

The wall is filling in with holds, and there's more to be added. Training has been steady of late, despite the heat. Having a wall in the backyard makes a huge difference in motivation.

Colter, you are the man!

La Muralita lives on

It may be raining, but the view from my porch just got a lot better. Yes, thats a climbing wall you see there. In fact, its a fairly legendary climbing wall. My good friend Colter, was the progenitor of said wall--known as La Muralita, after a climbing gym in Uruguay he frequented during his time studying abroad. La Muralita resided in Colter's back yard for many years, until recently when he graduated and moved back to Montana.

As you may remember my wall was wrecked in a crazy windstrom a year ago, and since then my training has dwindled. So when Colter offered me his wall, I gladly accepted. He even threw in his holds, which has really improved the variety of training options.



Tyler and I went in together and bought some more lumber and added another plywood panel to the wall to increase the climbing surface to 12' x 8'. A few days ago we completed the work, raised the wall and started adding holds. We've also ordered a hundred more T-Nuts and plan to cover it in holds.



The wall is 45 degrees and stays fairly dry unless the rain is really coming down.



I'm pumped to have a wall back in action, and especially one that's so close to home. With school and work its often difficult to travel to climb. Hopefully this wall will help friends and me stay in shape for those trips when they do come.

Colter, while you are off backcountry ski-mountaineering, dont forget the little people who are in Texas slaving away in 100 degree heat, on a steep wall with greasy holds. Our time will come...

And thanks again for the wall buddy.

Good Reads

Well I am a married man now. Lindsey and I are settling into our new home and starting life together. I'm so lucky to marry her--and she let me hang my hangboard in the kitchen! So the training is going strong.

I just finished two good reads I thought I would share with you. The first is Climb! The History of Rock Climbing in Colorado, by Jeff Achey, Dudley Chelton and Bob Godfrey.



I picked up Climb! because I was particularly interested in the history of the few Colorado areas I have visited, but I quickly read the book cover to cover. The history behind most of Colorado's classic routes are included, and its fascinating to realize how difficult people were able to climb, even before many gear advancements. Even if you dont live in Colorado, this book will inspire you to put up routes of your own, and maybe even travel out there to try some of those classics.

My second read was Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America, by John Sherman.



This book starts with a history of bouldering, specifically focused on John Gill- the godfather of bouldering and dynamic movement. It then traces the history, personalities, and problems of different areas by region in America. Because I spend more time bouldering than anything else I really enjoyed this one, and now have a huge ticklist of problems I would like to climb someday. My one complaint is that the only area covered in Texas is Hueco Tanks. Of course that is where Sherman spent much of his time (developing the V-scale there), but I would have enjoyed reading some history of centex bouldering. Still, I'd recommend this book to any boulderers out there.

These books are particularly relevant and interesting because of their focus on rock climbing. While there is a wealth of literature on mountaineering, critical writing in the fields of trad, sport, and bouldering is lacking. As well, though both of these books are now a bit dated, the majority of the routes and problems found in them are still there for anyone to try. I know I'll be road tripping for some of them soon...well, I hope!

Mission Impossible Backside- Guide

After climbing Mission Impossible fairly early on in my wanderings at the lake, you would have thought I'd looked at the backside of the boulder earlier. For whatever reason, it was only a little over a year ago that Ben and I cleared the brush back from its base and found 4 great climbs. Ben nabbed the first ascent on all of these lines, and we repeat them often these days.

All four lines are moderate, and the landing is great. This makes the Mission Impossible boulder one of the best for warming up and beginning climbers. Its great to start your day by circuiting through these four, and then going to the opposite side and climbing Mission Impossible. Give it a try.



1. Mission Enough (v0)- Climb the left arete.

2. Mission Possible (v0)- Climb the crack that runs parallel to the left arete, while staying off of the arete proper. Though this may seem like an eliminate, it actually climbs naturally and doesn't feel contrived.

3. Mission Direct (v0+)- A great intro to slab climbing. Head straight up the center of the face, balancing on small and devious slopers. Don't wimp out and reach for the aretes!

4. Tomcat (v0)- Climb the right arete. Like Mission Impossible, but easier.

Just Say No

Here's the topo for the Just Say No arete. On the face left of the arete is This is Your Brain


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1. Just Say No (5.10)- Start low (has been climbed from a sit) and climb straight up the arete. Both right and left variations have been climbed at the top. Top rope anchors are ten feet back from the lip. Will require long runners to set up.