Thanksgiving at Reimers

In true celebratory fashion, I spent two days of thanksgiving break climbing at Reimers. Brad invited me to stay the night at his house on Tuesday, and climb with he, his brother and his girlfriend. Brad was anxious to try Spidergrind (5.11), so we started there.



Brad linked through all the moves on top-rope and will likely send it on his next trip. The highlight of the climb, however, was Brad's cry to "Let me down! I'm bleeding!" The blood is pictured below.

We walked to the House of Pain area, my first time to head all the way over there, and its one of the most impressive areas of hard routes I've seen in Texas. Someday I'll try Irreverent Youth...someday.

After climbing a few 10's Die Hard, War on Rugs, and T-Roofic, we went back to Sex Cave to climb Liposuction (5.12) . I've wanted to try the route since first seeing it a few years ago, but hadn't tried it. Jason led the route, sans stickclip (which is pretty spooky), and I followed on top-rope.

On saturday, I met Bryan in Austin, and we went back out to Reimers. After warming up on Die Hard, we went back to Sex Cave to try Body Wax (5.12). I tried the route a year ago, and decked going for the dyno, so I put a crash-pad down (dont tell me sponsors) and climbed through the dyno relatively quickly. I pulled the rope and went for the redpoint, but fell over and over, pumping out on the last moves.

Hopefully I'll be able to head back down there soon.

A trip like old...and Bryan sending Burlfest

On Saturday, Bryan and I drove down to Brownwood just like old times. Byran and I met through climbing, and its always good to catch up while doing the thing we enjoy most. The temperature was perfect--cold, and Bryan was determined to finish off his long-term project Burlfest.

He worked the top out and locked down beta that would work for him, and then went for his first burn linking through all of the moves but falling off the last jug.

We both knew the send was immenent, and sure enough he sent on his second try. Bryan has worked Burlfest since last semester, and when the moves finally came together for him, it was one of the best Brownwood moments I've been a part of. We celebrated with honey roasted peanuts. Well done Bryan.

After the send we explored some boulders that we hadn't paid much attention to before. The lake is down and several boulders typically guarded by water are revealing some potential lines. There is work to be done.

I sent Scott's Problem last time, and its one of my new favorites at Brownwood. Bryan was eager to try it so we spent the rest of our time there, taking pictures and climbing it over and over. Bryan will surely link Scott's Problem next time.

Bryan on Scott's Problem's most devious sloper:

I also worked a new project just left of Scott's Problem, that's going to be hard. I'm anxious to get back on it. Here I am about to dyno to a bad sloper on the project.



All in all, a good day.

Scott's Granite Gripper photos

Scott C. sent me these pictures from the Gripper. Not only can he take pictures, but he's also organizing an Adopt-a-crag/Competition at Camp Eagle scheduled for December 7. Head out if you can, as it'll be a great weekend...good climbing and good people.

GRANITE GRIPPER

Lindsey, Tyler and I headed down to E-Rock this weekend for the annual Granite Gripper. We ate some schnitzel in Fredricksburg, and met up with Scott C. from Camp Eagle at the park friday night. The comp started at 9 saturday morning, after the rules were distributed at the pavilion. Here's Tyler and I right before we dashed to the Dairy Farm Boulders.





At the Dairy Farm, Eric O. from Fredricksburg, Scott and I put in some work on Frogratron Direct (V5), and Eric O. was able to dispense of the problem quickly. I failed on the direct version, but did send Frogatron Right (v4). Here is Scott working the direct problem and Eric on his send.











Tyler worked a V2 in the Dairy Farm, but fell near the top several times. He could have sent with a little more time. He's pictured below on the problem.







I've been "jonesing" to try The Prow (v6), since watching Scott C. try it last year on another trip. Eric o. dispatched the problem on his second go. I was shut down several times. Took a rest and came back and fell off the last jug. Realizing I may actually be able to send, i took a short rest and sent on my next go. One of the harder problems I have ever done. pictured below.









After topping out (with mild celebration) I realized i had torn a deep flapper on the pad of my middle finger. My celebration turned to devastation--but with a serious taping I was able to keep climbing. I left quite a bit of blood on the right crimp, which I'll admit was pretty awesome.



We then tried Texas Blowfish (v5), a great slopy rail to a horrendous topout. Scott C. tried the problem last year, and sent on his second go this weekend. Here is Scott C. on his send.



I didn't send, but this picture is cool. So I'll shamelessly post it.



After Tyler sent a high slabby v1 at the Ding Dongs area, we all tried Rombatron (v4), but Eric O. was the only one to send. pictured below.



Tyler then tried Idaho (v2), but the high crimps proved too devious to be mastered.



With about three hours left before time expired, we hiked to the BURBs area to try Albacross (v5), and The BURBs (v4), and nobody sent either. But alas, in a last ditch effort to save face after the long hike, Tyler, Scott and I all climbed Albacore (v2), which required creative padding (i.e. holding back the unruly bushes). pictured below.

As time expired, Scott and I knew neither of us had a scorcard worthy of entry, so we hiked over to the Kingdom of Zilch area to climbed Zanzibar (v2), Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test (v4) and Louie (v4). I'll admit, I love a good arete, and Louie is one of the best I've climbed. pictured below.

Tyler placed third in his category, and won a chalk bag. Well done cuz. All in all, the comp was a great time, and I plan to return with vengeance next year.

Lastly, here's my beautiful photographer and pack mule, Lindsey, who tirelessly supported us all day.

Reimers for Fall Break

On Friday, Tom, Scott, Duke and I went to Reimer's Ranch for half a day. The "more important" goal of the weekend was going to Fiesta Texas on Saturday, but I managed to work some climbing into the trip.

We climbed a couple of moderates, and at the end of the day I tried Yertle the Turtle (5.12a). I hangdogged my way up the route, pulled the rope and went for the redpoint. However, I blew the third clip and took a huge fall. After that, I was too pumped to get on it again. We climbed 8-Flake and took off. Here are some pictures of Tom, Scott and Duke.

Tyler and I are heading to the Granite Gripper this weekend. Should be a good time.

Brownwood Weekend

Updates are in order...

Last Friday, Lindsey and I made a quick trip Brownwood to give my project on the Texas boulder a few attempts. It was a cold morning, and after we warmed up on Tall Cool Blue One I jumped on the project. On the first attempt i fell making the large stretch into Texas Toast. I rested for a few minutes, got back on, and sent Texas Torture.

Here are a few pictures taken by Bryan on Sunday of me pulling past the crux on Texas Torture, and linking into Texas Toast:

Texas Torture is the hardest problem I have climbed, and is certainly one of the most difficult at Brownwood. After, sending my project, Lindsey and I set about clearing out the trails, and clearing cacti from the top-outs of two new projects.

We also checked out Scott's Problem, put up by Scott C. from Camp Eagle two years ago. I tried the problem two years ago, but haven't put any effort towards it, as the landing has been covered in poisin ivey and vines since then. Lindsey and I cleaned it all out and planned to head back on Sunday.

Sunday:

Bday and I took Brian C. and Jason, from the other side of town, out to Brownwood for their first trip.

Brian C. dispatched several problems including Mission Impossible, Slap That, Tall Cool Blue One, and Panzy Fest. He also worked on Burlfest and linked into the sidepull, but fell going for one of the higher slopers. Here he is topping out Panzy Fest:

BDay came heartbreakingly close on Burlfest. Sunday was definitely his best day on the problem, and he fell twice on the last slopers. He will surely send next time he goes out.

BDay is getting strong right now, doing the moves on Texas Toothpick easily Sunday. I tried to make him attempt Jagged Edge...but to no avail. Here he is on Burlfest:

At the end of the day, Brian C. and I went to Scott's Problem with its new and improved landing area. On my first go i fell off brutal sloper mantel. Brian C. helped me to work out some new beta and I sent quickly after. Scott's Problem is one of the best at Brownwood; pictured below:

I also cleaned the arete on the right side of the Texas boulder, and established a new problem--unamed as of yet...but the moves are great and it needs to be repeated.

Today--Tom, Scott, Duke and I climbed at Reimer's. More updates to come soon.