A motley crew of road and trail weary friends found out first hand the climbing potential in the Guadalupe Mountains the first weekend of March. Although we only got to climb for about an hour or so, we found a number of good lines on what I'm calling the Dragon Boulder: Stage Left (FA Colter Lane), Exit Cactus Left (FA Alex Wann), and La Buena Vista (FA Wann), all probably around V0 (although I really have no concept of the "V" rating system). Then we found and sent another problem Martyr's Ladder (FA Lane) on the same boulder, which might go as a V1 or V2.I've perused the internet quite a bit for any mention of rock climbing in the Guadalupe area and nothing has revealed itself. Some sources (namely the NPS) cite the poor quality of the rock dissuading people from establishing much of a climbing destination. Looking at the cliffs around, I don't know if I entirely believe that, but it would be beyond my ability to tackle some of the huge walls found on the side of Guadalupe Peak and El Capitan. From what I've seen though it has a lot of potential for being a good bouldering alternative to the more crowded and more regulated Hueco Tanks, especially if you were willing to hike into the Devil's Hall area. There is just something about being in a wilderness setting away from a load of people, climbing without pressure, not trying to prove yourself, just scaling the rock because you feel compelled to reach the top by the most difficult means your body can handle.
I would stress Leave No Trace Principles for anyone else trying to establish new climbing routes. The land is a National Park and the desert environment is reasonably fragile. Be smart, use your head, think of the people who will tread the land after you, and leave the beauty of the wilderness intact. Scrub your tick marks, don't stash your pads...you know the drill.
Me standing next to Martyr's Ladder, which moves from the nasty bush bottom center through the darker water mark and tops out in the "book" between chossy bulges.
Nathan looking strong as Baret looks on with awe.
Me climbing Exit Cactus Left, Nathan with the spot.
1 comment:
Merrick Ales has some bouldering photos up somewhere on his site. Once upon a time there was an article about climbing El Capitan in one of the mags. I had a scanned copy that has since disappeared.
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