Sunday, January 25, 2009

Texas Block



Nick and I spent half a day at Brownwood today. The weather was great, 65 and no wind. We warmed up on Mission Impossible, and then made our way to the Texas Block. Nick is pictured above on Texas Toast. He fell off the last move, just missing the second ascent. He did send Slap That quickly though.

In response to Bryan's chastising that I never climb the same problem twice, I repeated Texas Torture today. Its really good. Come climb it.



The Texas Block:
Named for a feature on the south end of the boulder shaped like the great state, the Texas Block houses several quality problems, but was overlooked during our first years at climbing at Brownwood. "Slap That" is located on a small boulder next to the Texas Block.

1. "Texas Toothpick" v2 - This climb was named after the delectable appetizer from Destiny Grill on the way back to Abilene. Sit Start. Move up through gaston and crimps to jug rail. The top out requires a big throw to a flake. Mantle.

2. "Texas Toast" v3 - Start right from a crouch on a side pull and gaston. Move up and left using a good right hand crimp. Finish "Texas Toothpick."

3. Project- Start "Texas Torture," and finish through a series of shallow pocket with a big throw for the lip.

4. "Texas Torture" v7?- The best line on the boulder. Start from a sit on a bad right hand crimp and left on the crimp marked by orange rock. Gain a heel, match on orange crimp and move left into bad gaston rail and pocket. Continue moving left into "Texas Toast." Could also possibly be started with the left hand on a lower undercling.

5. Project- Direct line from orange crimp of "Texas Torture."

6. "Razor Ramone" v2- Climb up into a sharp (sketchy) flake.

7. "Texas Arete" v4- Start on the Right side of the arete, and move up using sidepulls, and small crimps on left side. Great line.

1 comment:

Movecrafter said...

Those blocks look good.
I think even the rock snobs here in Colorado would climb those things.