Monday, February 15, 2010

Camp Eagle Weekend

I went down to Camp Eagle this weekend for the annual Climbing Palooza there. Ben and Mary came in from Brownwood as well, not ones to miss a climbing get-together. I didn't make it in until 3:30 in the afternoon, hung around with Ben and Mary while they worked on a route Ben bolted last time. I was jonesing to bolt a route, but I didn't head to the top of the cliff until almost 5:30.

I got lucky and bailed off right above the route I hoped to bolt, but was worried that I would run out of daylight. I lowered down, cleaned the route, and marked bolt placements with the last of the light, and hiked to the top of the cliff at dusk. I thought about bailing, but grabbed the headlamp and went ahead and bolted it.

The route is at the very end of the Sherpa Trek, on a short, mildly overhanging wall. The route takes a series of small crimps and pockets through the first 3 bolts, a rest at the fourth, and a tough deadpoint to a bulge encounter at the fifth.

Scott and I climbed on it. He got the first ascent (well done good sir--great climbing), and I fell at the last bolt on my redpoint go. It'll be there next time. We settled on End of the Line, and it probably goes somewhere around 5.12-. Unfortunately, I didn't get any pictures.

Later in the afternoon, Ben snagged the first ascent of the route he bolted on his last trip. I believe he decided on Scooby Snacks and thinks its 5.9. The route looks great. Well done Ben. Doesn't seem to me that "I'm getting to old for this" is proving true for you, since your still out there snagging all these first ascents!

Sorry for lack of pics. Adios

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