Hueco Tanks Trip Day 1

Hey all, it's Tyler again, Eric's cousin. Due to my previous blog post and the stroke of genius it possessed, I got recruited to write about the first day of our trip to Hueco Tanks out in El Paso, Texas. For all who aren’t aware, myself, Eric, and Brian Day all made a 3-day trip to Hueco Tanks this past week. Let me begin by saying that the trip was a major success, full of proud sends and amazing community.

But enough of all that pish posh, it's time to get talking about the freaking climbing, which is going to be a task in itself to describe. We woke up at the break of dawn, and I mean literally the break of dawn (if you’ve ever camped with Eric and Brian you’ll know what I’m talking about), ate a quick breakfast, and made our way into the park. Our first stop took us to the Gymnasium boulders for a quick warm-up, pictured below. Here we all flashed Bad Axe, a 2 star V1 that takes you about 12 feet up on pure huecos, a really fun problem. Following our warm up, Eric and I though we would would try Only the Little People Pay Taxes, a 2 star V3 right next to Bad Axe. We quickly got shut down and decided we wanted to move on to more classic stuff in the park.

We left the Gymnasium boulders and headed to the ultra-classic problem Nobody Gets Out of Here alive, a 4 star V2 that must be done if you’re going to Hueco Tanks, pictured below. I flashed the problem on my first go and Eric followed with a proud send on his second attempt. Brian put in some great burns but had a little trouble with the top out. You’ll have to stay tuned for posts on Day 2 and Day 3 to see if he gets the send.

After our time at Nobody Gets Out of Here Alive, we made a short move to another ultra classic problem, Mexican Chicken, a 3 star V6. Below is Eric working the problem. Out of the three of us, he made the most progress and only lacked a coupled moves to top out. We spent an hour or so here before eventually moving on.

After Mexican Chicken we made our way over to another ultra classic Hueco problem and a definite must-do if you're ever in the park, Lobster Claw, a 3 star V5. We set up camp and ate a quick launch before we started putting in work. Pictured below is Brian getting ready for an attempt at a send. All three of us worked the problem for a good couple of hours before Eric finally grabbed the first V5 send of the trip, congrats Eric on a proud send. Brian and myself had the lower moves dialed in but couldn’t make the top throw to finish up the problem. This pretty much rounded out Day 1 of the trip, give or take a few other minor problems we got on here and there that I forgot to document.

A couple of other interesting things that happened during Day 1; we saw Jason Kehl in the park, me and Eric feasted on instant potatoes and Dak, and we were introduced to a community of climbers where their beer came before their climbing.

Keep your eyes peeled for a post on Day 2 from Eric in the near future.

Hueco Tanks

Bryan, Tyler and I are leaving for Hueco today! Full trip report upon our return...

Brad and Tyler's E-Rock Trip

Hey this is Tyler, Eric's cousin, dropping in for a little guest post on the BlogSpot.

This weekend my buddy Brad Miller and I headed down to Enchanted Rock for a little bouldering expedition. The last time I was down at E-Rock was during the Granite Gripper last October, so I was excited about getting back down there and seeing how I had improved. Of course the conditions were hot, the rock was sharp, and the climbing amazing.

We began the day at the Dairy Farm and Frog Pond boulders, located low and right of the main dome. We warmed up on a couple of beginner problems including Milk Mustache(V1), Cow Tipping(V0), and Longhorn Flake(V1). Both Brad and myself worked through these quickly and moved on to harder stuff. I set my sights on Frogatron Direct, a V5 that I worked for close to an hour but couldn't put together the final moves for an ascent. It is definitely one of my favorite problems in the park despite the fact that I didn't get the ascent. Brad worked Milk Jugs (V1), to the right of Frogatron Direct, and is pictured below during his proud ascent. After a snack break we moved around to the backside of these boulders where I tried the sit start of the Prow, a V8, where I quickly found after not being able to make the first move, that I am by no means V8 status yet. Brad worked and sent Ice Cream Corner, a V0+, to the right of The Prow.

After our time at Dairy Farm and Frog Pond we moved on to the Romb Social Boulders, where I spent a good hour and a half working Rombatron, a V4. I had attempted this problem during the Gripper last year and gotten extremely frustrated when I couldn't even make the beginning moves. This trip however would be a different story. After an hour of work I kept getting to the last move but couldn't commit to the final throw for the top. Below is a picture of me extremely frustrated after not being able to get the final move. I finally got tired of taking 12 foot falls and just went for the final throw. I stuck it initially, then began to slip off. I quickly readjusted and got to the hueco for the top out. It was definitely one of the best feelings I've experienced in my climbing career.

Burnt out at the Romb Social Boulders, we made a final move over to Zanzibar, a highly acclaimed V2 located in the Kingdom of Zilch section at the front of the Little Dome. Brad and I both worked the problem and after multiple tries I finally grabbed the ascent, although my top out over the mantle was extremely sloppy looking. Next time I'll have to clean it up.

Overall, the trip was a major success. It was characterized by great climbing, some proud ascents, and a full on shred. I'm definitely looking forward to getting back there soon.

The Infamous Project

After studying all weekend, I made it out to the lake with Ben and Mary after church today. Lately, the Jagged Edge direct project has been on my mind.

The Jagged Edge direct project is number 2. Allow me to give a little history on this block (all the history I know about it...surely there is more). Three years ago, at the original Access Fund sponsored lake clean-up, Scott and Zack came up from Camp Eagle for the festivities. I had looked at the Jagged Edge boulder before, but the landing is terrible. There are multiple smaller boulders and terraces beneath this face.

The face itself is incredible, with a slight 25-30 degree overhang and some small slopers and crimps. On that day, we hung a toprope over the lip and worked the direct version. Both Scott and Zack made serious progress, but the only clear line requires a 4-5 foot dyno off of a small crimp and a sloper to a pretty good sloping jug. Thus the line went unsent. However, the arete (#4 in the picture) was sent by Scott on top-rope.

About a year later I began to work what would become "Jagged Edge" (#3 in the picture) With quite a few more pads, I worked the line ground-up, taking a number of huge falls. The advantage to Jagged Edge, is that at the highest point of the climb, your falls are usually going to land you on a fairly flat terrace. If you blow it before that you'd be in trouble.

Eric O. rolled into town one weekend at around this same time and promptly sent and named Jagged Edge after a good effort. With quite a few pads there, he ventured onto Jagged Edge direct, looking for any static options, but found none. I followed his ascent of Jagged Edge the next weekend. It is probably still the most aesthetic (and cool) climb at the lake.

Well on the Camp Eagle trip, Scott asked about Jagged Edge direct, which got me to thinking about it again. So today, I threw a top-rope on it, and began to work it. From the small crimp and sloper that were originally used for the dyno, one can reach up and left to an abismal sloping crimp. Off of this i was able to bump for a better sloper at the limit of my reach, but failed to ever lock it in. I also tried the direct dyno beta and though I hit the hold a few times, I was also not able to hold onto it.

When Jagged Edge direct goes...it'll be awesome. Certainly the most impressive climb at the lake.

Here's two pictures of me on it today.

Also, expect a guest post by Tyler or Brad on their trip to Enchanted Rock this weekend. Tyler sent Rombatron...I'm jealous.