Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Scott on Buffet Line (5.13)


Here's a video of Scott doing work on Buffet Line (5.13). This thing is hard...I couldn't even get my feet in place for the opening dyno...

I'm trying to post this to youtube, but apparently I already have a google account that I dont remember my password for. I'll figure it out, but until then check out the video here, and read the trip report from camp eagle below.

(also listen for ben's commentary, a special bonus feature to this video)

Camp Eagle weekend



Ben, Mary, Lindsey and I went down to Camp Eagle for the weekend and had a great time.



Camp Eagle is a Christian adventure camp near Rocksprings, TX. It has to be one of the most impressive places in Texas, with rolling hills, rocky trails, a clear river...and huge cliffs.



We climbed all weekend on what are probably some of the longer limestone routes in Texas. After months of bouldering, my endurance is severely lacking. I'd say everyone in our party felt similarly.


But we did meet up with Scott, who works full-time out at camp, and he quickly dominated (and hung the draws for me) on several routes. Scott's climbing pretty hard these days. Sidenote: Scott's Problem at Brownwood owes its name and first ascent to this Scott.



The potential for route development at Camp Eagle is overwhelming. Ben and I are already conspiring plans to get back and sink some bolts.

All in all, it was one of the best weekends we've had in a long time. I would highly recommend Camp Eagle to anyone wanting to get on long routes in a impressive setting with great people.


Saturday, October 3, 2009

Great Success

The Brownwood Crag Clean-up was unreal last weekend. We had several drive in from out of town (some as far as Fredricksburg), a huge turn-out of Brownwood locals, as well as 20 students from ACU's outdoor club. All in all, between 30-35 people.


During the summer months, the lake gets to be in pretty bad shape. A lot of swimmers head to the area to swim and party, which is great...except for the trash and graffiti left behind. This, on top of the standard summer plant growth, had the lake in bad need of a clean-up. But with the huge turn-out we quickly dispatched the goals for the day and started climbing early.


The Rock Addiction crew brought harnesses and shoes for all the students, and we were able to set up about 15 top ropes during the day. I've climbed at most of the public areas in Texas, and I can't say there is a more accessible and moderate area for beginning climbers to learn at--top rope set ups are easy, the climbs are short, rock is good. And I think the kids climbing for their first time really had a blast.
We also slung a few of the tough routes and Colter and Tyler put some work in on This is Your Brain. Tyler is pictured below on the opening crimpy moves.


Colter and Tyler were also both able to send Scott's Problem. This makes ascents 5 and 6 by my count.
It was a great day, and we accomplished a lot. Ben and Mary are doing a great job of maintaining access to and improving the quality of this "west Texas gem." They are the real work-horses out there, and their efforts are truly appreciated.