Lake Clean-Up

On saturday, I met Ben and Mary down at the Lake for the Clean-Up. Ben and Mary put on a clean-up at Brownwood the last Saturay of every other month. During the summer months the climbing at the lake collects a lot of trash from the swimmers and parties. And like any Texas area, with the heat the plants grow and the trails get tight. So there's always work to be done.



We set to work clearing the top outs of one of the taller walls at the lake. Ben had a saw blade put on his weed-eater that cuts clearing time in half.



Both Ben and I had looked at this wall in the past, but never seriously considered bouldering it. The wall at its highest is 22 feet tall, and guarded by two to three feet of rotten rock at the top. After digging out a foot of choss at the top, we finally gave up and set up a top rope anchor ten feet back from the lip and ran a static over.



Ben grabbed the first ascent of Tell Mafie Nothing which weighs in at 5.9. The pictures are of Mary and I climbing it.

From the same anchor we were able to top-rope an adjacent line with a huge dyno at the top. We are calling it Holladay and its probably 5.10 or 11. Side note--we found an old home made piton in one of the cracks on Holladay. Probably twenty to thirty years old. We've found old pitons in the past, and even one old bolt. It'd be interesting to know some othe Lake climbing history...if anyone has information shoot me an email.

Several more climbs were cleaned on the wall but are still awaiting first ascents. This new wall is Ben's dedication to close friend and legendary Texas climber, Kirk Holladay, who passed away last month. Kirk was co-owner of Rock About guiding service, an ambassador for access to Texas climbing areas, and an Enchanted Rock icon. He will be missed.

If you have a chance, get out there and try out the new climbs or grab a first ascent in his honor.

long time

Well, its been awhile since I've posted. Busy graduating and working. But last night, I was able to make a quick trip to the lake with Tyler and Scott. We met up with Ben there and had a blast. 

Its getting hot in Texas, but if you want to climb outside, you've got to deal with it. The slopers were pretty slick and the crimps greasy, but it was still a great time.

Unfortunately, the summer brings out the swimmers and parties at the lake. With them comes trash and graffiti. Sadly, one great boulder was covered in new graffiti recently. 

Ben has been working hard during the week to keep it clean down there, but can hardly keep up. If you head down there, take a trash bag with you and help the cause.

Until next time...

short session

Ben and I did some bouldering at the lake Saturday morning. I had to work in the afternoon, so the session was cut short.

I was able to climb the new problems on the Mission Impossible boulder that Ben climbed last week. The boulder now has five lines total with the new additions--Tomcat, Mission Direct, Mission Possible, and Mission Enough.--first ascents by Ben.

In other news, while walking around we spotted an overhanging boulder, that I've somehow missed for three years. Its guarded by a fortress of poisin ivy at the moment, but come winter..it's on.

I forgot my camera on saturday, so here's an old shot of Lindsey on Mission Impossible. The new problems are on the opposite side of the boulder.

Scott at Camp Eagle

My good buddy Scott (the first ascentionist of the aptly named Scott's Problem at Brownwood) down at Camp Eagle put up a tough route at Camp Eagle a few months ago. Its called Buffet Line and goes at 5.13. The first move itself looks pretty brutal. I hope to make it down to camp soon to try it out.

Here's a link to the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xK8i5syGA4A

Camp Eagle is a great spot for long limestone sport routes in Central Texas. If you need information, shoot me a message, or check out www.campeagle.org

Also check out these trip reports from Zack at climbdfw, about his time at Camp Eagle: http://climbdfw.wordpress.com/tag/camp-eagle/

Cleaning New Routes

This weekend's clean-up was a great success. We cleared the top outs to a few walls and while doing so I spotted this new climb.



But on Saturday evening I had to work and didn't get a chance to check it out. Today I was off though, so I went down to the lake right after class and lowerd down to check it out.

And its good...slightly overhanging, slopey crimps the whole way. I scrubbed the holds, but will save serious attempts for another day.

Then I went to the Cannibas Canyon to check out the arete right of This Is Your Brain, the 5.11 face that Ben, Bryan and I put up. The arete had several sections of chossy rock, so I lowerd down to do clean it up. Check out my anchor...



Ben met me there right as I was lowering down and he checked the top to set up an anchor, for top-rope attempts. We worked the climb until dusk and its another good one. Both Ben and I managed to peace together the moves and and agree that its probably in the 5.10+ range.

There are two variations at the top, taking either side of the arete. Both are worthwhile. I'm thinking it'll be called Just Say No.

Everytime I'm at the lake, I see more potential. Hopefully the poisin ivy will hold off for just a little while longer.

Climbing, Recovery and Work

Until this past weekend my climbing has slacked considerably. I did something to my elbow on the wall a few weeks ago, and hadn't climbed since. However this sunday we traveled to Brownwood and climbed some moderates.

Unfortunately, I have no pictures at the moment.

But Nick sent Texas Toast. Well done, good sir.

In other news, tommorow morning is another workday. Several ACU students will be meeting the Rock Addiction folks at 9 am. If your in the area, come by, do some work, and do some climbing.

Report on the trip to follow.

Doing Work

Bryan and I took a half-day trip to Brownwood this weekend and met up with Ben. We were pumped to try a tall new route, so we set up a top-rope anchor and cleaned a great new route in the 5.11 range.

Both Ben and I have eyed the two faces on this arete. The arete is one of the more inspiring features at brownwood, with the look of a giant ship's prow. We also hung a rope over the arete proper, but it'll take some cleaning before its safe for serious attempts.





The new route going up the water streak (pictured), follows a 15 degree overhang on small crimps and shouldery gastons. The crux happens to come at the top, moving from a small slopey crimp to another slopey crimp. I did manage to top it out, and am trying to draw up a way to lead it on some long webbing runners from the top anchors.

I really need to take a moment and thank Ben and his wife Mary for everthing they do out at the Lake. He really has done a lot to make Brownwood and enjoyable and safe climbing spot for people of all ability levels, as well maintain access for guys like me. Thanks for everything ya'll do.

In other news: Bryan sent Scott's Problem, for the fourth ascent to date. Tyler managed to get some video footage of the send, so I hope to put together a clip sometime this week. Check back in for that. Proud send Bryan...Texas Torture next? Jagged Edge?



This is actually Tyler on Scott's Problem. He's now done all the moves and only lacks the link. He'll send next time I'm sure. He did nab an ascent of the dyno problem by the water. I'll also pick up some footage of this and make a clip...so you have multiple reasons to check the blog later this week. Until then, climb hard.

P.S.
Zack and Scott, you better be doing work down there at camp. I expect a second ascent of Buffet Line from you Zack. I hope to climb with you guys soon.