Ben and I spent the day clearing cactus, brush and bolting anchors for the climb that has gone by several names: Angel Flake/Duke's Dome/Lake Flake/Ankle...
If you've been to the lake, you have definitely eyed this climb. Its a crack/flake that looks straight out of Yosemite and climbs just as good.
Here's a little history on the route. On one of my earliest trips to the lake, I ran into a former local who told me the route may or may not have been bouldered before. A top-rope was impossible (highly improbable) because a giant cacus guarded the top of the route. It was this local who had named the route Angel Flake.
Most people who visit the Lake have climbed up the first park of the flake, some have even ventured into the second break in the flake. But when the flake stops you have to make three big and spooky moves over the roof to finish the climb. Most people drop well before the roof.
In August of 2008, a group of us tried bouldering the route ground up. My good friend Duke was the first to brave the roof, and pull over the lip, for the first confirmed ascent. I followed immedietally after, but it was pretty spooky. Tyler took a serious fall right after that from just below the roof, and we decided to call it a day. Duke named the route Duke's Dome.
A few months a later, a friend attempted to boulder the route, dropped from the final moves, and fell awkwardly. His ankle was badly broken and we spent the day at the brownwood hospital. Since then, I know of no one who has attempted to boulder the route in its entirety. Nor would I recommend it. There is a precarious boulder at the base, that makes protecting the fall extremely difficult (evidenced by my friend's leg).
Ben and I have talked about the quality of this route for a long time, but bouldering the route is not safe. Its certainly do-able, but no one is doing it and this great route is getting no traffic. Move-for-move the route is likely the best at the Lake. It isn't terribly difficult but the moves are awesome. So Ben and I talked it out, and decided to add two anchor bolts about 10 feet back from the lip. If you want to boulder it, go for it, but if you'd rather top rope it the anchors are there. Go climb it.
Ben and I finished the day off with some moderate bouldering. A few weeks ago we put up a new boulder problem near Mission Impossible called Anticipation. We had to take out a bunch poisin ivey and brush, so you probably wont miss it.
On a final note, when setting up your anchor for the Lake Flake (insert other names here), I would suggest letting the rope hang slightly right of the roof. The roof has a fracture in it. I dont suspect it would ever break, but climb it with caution.
Look for more updates soon.
