Sunday, September 28, 2008

The Best Boulder Problem?

This summer I was lucky enough to head up to Mt. Evans with family and my girlfriend lindsey. Here are two shots of us on Indian Ladder (v1/2). This problem may have some of the best moves and holds of any climb I've ever been on. Comparable in quality (but not style) to Nobody Gets Out of Here Alive in Hueco. Enjoy the pictures.




Saturday, September 27, 2008

Brownwood Projects

We woke up early (an hour behind schedule) and headed down to Brownwood today for a few hours. There was a group of locals and boyscouts out cleaning the crag, which suprised us because we haven't seen evidence of anyone out there in about a year. The more the merrier. The cliffs are pretty popular for local swimmers and drinkers, and the trash and broken glass collect all over. A little cleaning here and there goes a long way.
We set to work on a couple projects discovered earlier in the week. I've walked by this boulder next to Stone Monkeys (aka Slap That) several times and only climbed on one not-so-great problem on the right side of the boulder. But after heavy scrubbing on tuesday, a sequence revealed itself on the left side of the boulder.
On tuesday i was able to put up a direct start, and a right variation that ups the grade quite a bit. But the real jewel is a sit start on the far right of the boulder which stays low and traverses into the meat of the original. When it goes, it'll be the hardest boulder problem I've established.
Below are some pictures of duke and joel working the direct version, and me on the project. Thanks Lindsey for being a such a dedicated photographer.









Friday, September 26, 2008

So it begins...

Let the dominion of Abilene Climbers commence. I dare anyone to stand in our way, including the infamous Brownwood boys, or Marshall T. or Conner SNsjnds, and or Moonies with the exception of Bryan Day.
After hours and hours spent on climbing blogs gathering motivation, information, and beta spewage, we'll now do our part to contribute to the climbing conglomerate.
This blog will be updated by several of us here in Abilene, TX. We train hours upon hours every week for the chance to spend half a day at the climbing mecca--BROWNWOOD. Occassionally we spend 3/4 of a day, but that is only if Joel gets permission from Erin.
As the sending temps approach, we'll attack the limestone with vengeance, continue fighting off poisin ivy, and continue talking bad about people with chacos and northface jackets (which all three of us have).
Hopefully this blog will provide us with the outlet to record our stone escapades across west texas. Below are some of the classic brownwood shots: